The dark early morn was chilly, with the full moon casting feint shadows from tombstones in the cemetery. Golden clouds on the eastern horizon were constantly changing colour, preparing for the dawn of another day in the outback town of Bourke, northern New South Wales.
Thirty six cyclists, all decked out in their bright coloured clothing, gathered together at the obelisk and grave site of Fred Hollows. They paid their respect to the man who gave so much of his time and knowledge to Australian and overseas indigenous people.
Phil McDonald from All Trails Bicycle Tours said a few words, carrying on the inspiration that Fred had created. Then the cyclists were off on their 1200km bike ride from The Back O' Bourke to Bourke Street Melbourne, raising money for The Fred Hollows Foundation. Following a day and a half of coach travel from Melbourne through outback towns, the feel of pedalling down the Kidman Way was really special, something all riders had trained for and dreamt about.
The brisk morning air enthused riders, with wildlife and native birds adding interest. Lunch under the peppercorn trees beside an old abandoned homestead energized the bodies, and carried them to the overnight stop at Cobar.
The big day of 257km saw cyclists pushing past the gold and copper mines at daybreak, with low lying fog creating a mystical feeling while trying to warm the feet and hands. Although some cyclists chose not to cycle the full distance, most powered on, dodging many unfortunate kangaroos, victims of massive road trains which roll across the Australian outback at night.
Accommodation each night was luxurious, complimented with hearty full breakfasts. Susan's morning tea, like the afternoon tea, was something you just didn't miss. The homemade chocolate chip muffins, Anzac biscuits or ginger biscuits with a hot cuppa was just divine, the perfect remedy when your body is famished. Our stop at the original Black Stump was enjoyed in perfect weather, and the ladies at Gunbar local hall put on a lovely spread.
Hay township and the surrounding plains create a sense of vast, never ending flat landscape, interrupted by herds of cattle grazing beside the roadside, with drovers and their trusty dogs keeping them on the move. The Boorooban Pub gave generously with a large donation and use of their facilities, before the Wanganella ladies made us welcome with an exceptional lunch and use of the lush lawns beside Billabong Creek.
The traffic was getting heavier, and cyclists now had to be aware of other road users as they neared Deniliquin. After a big night out in the local hotel, with chunky steaks filling the bill, the riders had an easy day of 75km to Echuca. Lunch in the bakery settled the hunger pains, before relaxation and massages on weary muscles. A sunny day set the scene for our late afternoon Murray River paddle steamer cruise, with food and wine flowing freely.
Visiting Sir Hubert Opperman's museum at Rochester was a highlight, interrupted by our search for three riders who created a slight diversion, however we caught them up before passing hectares of vineyards. The first real hills after Heathcote were attacked with deliberation as the cyclists pushed past massive granite boulders on their way to Lancefield.
The last night was a hoot with gifts shared around and speeches a plenty.
Riding into Melbourne was the highlight for many, with TV cameras and the auction fetching $1400 for a T shirt, signed by all participants, and donated to The Fred Hollows Foundation. The proud and weary cyclists pedalled long and hard, and apart from some excruciating pain, their sense of achievement and meeting their loved ones in Bourke Street Melbourne was the only thing on their minds.Congratulations. An amazing ride.
Thank you to all participants for helping raise $35,000 for The Fred Hollows Foundation.
Phil & Susan McDonald